|Another Sis Boom Ethan Button Down|
Yes, You heard correctly...Another Ethan Button Down Shirt.I'm sure you're thinking "another Ethan shirt!"
And I would have to say, "Yep."
This is a little different. It has short sleeves. It is a plaid seersucker. I modified the sleeves and made a cut-on front placket and flat-felled seams.
I did the plaid a little differently than I did the gingham Ethan. Instead of attempting to match this irregular plaid, I contemplated cutting the yoke and pocket on the bias. However, because I started daydreaming, I forgot to put the yoke on the bias. I had already cut the pocket on the bias. Middle Son told me he didn't want a pocket. Yippee! I didn't even mention the option of the bias yoke. He probably wouldn't care anyway.
So, after I had made sure that the fronts and back were all matched horizontally, I made sure to cut the collar, band, and yoke all with the same line on the center. The difference from the gingham Ethan is that instead of cutting these out on grain, I cut them cross-grain. It is a common look, but not how the directions show.
|It is difficult to see, but I traced the pattern pieces using a chalk pen.|
Because it is an irregular plain, I also marked the wrong side on each
piece to help me avoid accidentally mixing the up later.
If you remember from the gingham Ethan, I forgot to flare out at the bottom of the sleeve when I cut it as a short sleeve. This time I remembered. I estimated that the hem would be about 1 inch. So, I marked where I wanted the hem and the amount to turn back. From where the hem would be turned, I flared out to match the taper, but in reverse.
These are the main differences that I had to plan before cutting. From there, I started sewing away. Middle Son prefers flat-felled seams--yep, he notices--and because he is thin, I didn't need to add to the seam allowances.
Sewing shoulder seam with flat-felled seams
|Tools to help me with the flat-felled armscye seams.|
Glue stick, gauge, and iron
For some reason, men's shirts have flat-felled seams. This makes a nice polished looking shirt. I managed to get some decent photos while making these, so I thought I would explain how I did it this time. I have multiple ways to do this and this is just one. I use the glue stick because this textured fabric did not hold a crease, making the glue a very welcome tool.
|The parts of the shoulder/sleeve seam.|
The armscye is the fabric on the body.
The sleeve cap is the the upper rounded portion of the sleeve.
The first I used a gauge to measure 1/4 inch, a glue stick, and my iron. As you can see, I use any glue stick. I actually measure 1/4 inch along the edge and put the glue along this edge. I also put a piece of paper under to avoid getting glue on my already stained ironing board cover while putting the glue on the fabric and remove the paper before ironing.
|This sleeve needs to fit in this armscye.|
Match the notches before sewing.
Before doing the gluing, make sure to have the correct sleeve and determine which way to glue and press the sleeve piece. Because the raw edges are going to be enclosed in the stitching, it is important to remember which side is up while pressing the edge. I do this by putting the body right side up and the sleeve right side down while matching the markings--single notches to match the fronts and the top of the shoulder and yoke, and double notches to match the back. Then, I flip the sleeve right side up and will turn the edge with the right side up.
|Off set the raw edge in by about 1/8 inch from folded edge|
After putting the glue on the edge, I turn in in--measuring again--and use the iron to dry the glue. This gave a very good fold and would hold while stitching. Don't worry, the glue will wash out. In fact, it is pliable and almost unnoticeable after ironing, except for holding the fabric in place.
|Checking the depth of the seam to determine where to|
top stitch from the outside.
Now comes the fun part! To pin the pieces together, match the notches--I use pins to mark at this point. But do not have the folded/glued edge and the raw edge even! The raw edge will be about 1/8 inch in from the outside folded edge. Once pinned, sew with 3/8 inch seam allowance from the raw edge and about 1/2 inch from the folded edge. If this allowance is not wide enough, the raw edge of the folded edge will be visible on the outside of the seam. Not good.
I always check that my stitches are smooth and even on the top and the bottom. Unfortunately, this shirt had a problem in the same place on both sleeves and I had to rip about 4 inches out and restitch. It added about 5 minutes to my sewing time. If it is smooth, press the seam before opening, then press away from the sleeve so that the raw edge is not visible. I measure this to determine the width of my top stitching from the outside. I then top stitch and double check that I have all of the raw edges enclosed.
|Stitching on outside|
|Modeling is pure torure|
|Long enough to tuck in, if only he would.|
Middle Son likes his new shirt, but we both think it could have been a little shorter. I do like that it could be tucked in. Once his shorts are made, we can determine if this needs an alteration.