Continuing the Sloper--Vogue 1004 & First Fitting

Vogue 1004--Front & Back Bodice with markings.
The red wax tracings are difficult to see on the pink & white
gingham in the photo, but are visible in person.

I left off in the middle of cutting out the sloper. Before cutting, there were measuring and calculating to determine the necessary adjustments to the various lengths and the waist and hip circumferences.

Because I want the grain and cross grains of the fabric to be be evident, I am using gingham. To avoid distorting and shifting the grain, I cut each piece individually. It is important to flip the pattern piece for one of the two pieces or two right or two left could be cut.

Vogue 1004--Front Bodice
Make all relevant information--bust point, amount added or subtracted
at the adjustment lines and seam lines--basically EVERYTHING.
I also recorded right and left, date and for whom,

I marked each pattern piece using wax tracing paper. I marked the grainline, the seam limes, the length adjustment lines, dartlines, and all relevant information--including the pattern number, size, date and that it is for me. I may need this if I make another or if I need to compare.

I used the wax markings to make thread tracings of the stitching lines in a contrasting color. I used navy, because I had an old cheap navy thread that I don't want to use to sew, but just cannot throw away without a little guilt. I think I bought it in the 1990's at a drug store. It has a printed price of 59¢.

I was tracing the darts, but I wasn't sure and stopped part way. So some of my darts are marked and some are not. The nice thing about thread tracing the lines is that it is easier to line up to baste or sew because you can feel where the seam line is. It is also visible from each side.

Having the seam lines thread traced made it easier to find the seam lines since the seam allowances are different on the front and back. The front is left unstitched and has a 5/8 inch allowance, which seems narrow after having 1 inch allowances.

The darts are sewn first. With the bodice, sleeves and skirt; there are 18 darts. Nothing like a little practice sewing darts! Normally, I wouldn't iron my stitching when making a muslin, but I did. I ironed them because the direction told me to and I am doing my best to follow directions on this. The darts are ironed down or toward the center. The bodice is sewn together at the shoulders, side seams and then the back. The skirt is side seams and back. Then the skirt and the bodice are sewing together matching seams. The sleeves don't go on before the first fitting.

Getting into this was easy. Pinning shut, was not. Remember, there is minimal ease and without extra ease, it was awkward to pin myself in. I will not be able to make fitting adjustments without help, so this is as far as I am today. This is actually the middle of page 6 of 12. There is a lot more to go!

If you have any fitting suggestions, please share.

Front
A lot of loose fabric above the
bust line.
Neckline is too big.
The bust line is a little low.
Loose fabric under the bust.
The waist is a little snug, but horizontal
The hip line is horizontal and
in the right spot.
The photo has pulling under the skirt
waist darts, but I didn't notice anything.
Hem is even

Back
Loose fabric above bust line.
Lovely bra band lines.
Waist is snug, but even.
Lovely swayback lines between waist and hip.
Hem is even.

Right
Above the bust needs some removal of fabric
loose fabric under bust is apparent
Definite sway back adjustment needed
A little tummy stress (where are my spanx!)
The skirt side seam is vertical and straight.
Hem is straight.

Right with arms raised
Not much different, but the bodice seam is
a little wavy.
The extra fabric under the bust is more apparent.

I just had to dance!
I had enough self-critiquing
for the day.

I am going to spend some time observing the photos and enlisting help on my fitting issues
 I am open to any constructive fitting advise.