Well, we sat down yesterday morning to watch some shows together. I used the time to start cutting out Mr. Toad's pants pattern. Uh...twenty...one...pieces! Yikes.
Since he is a 34 in the pants--per Vogue sizing--and 38 in the waist, I decide to cut a 34 from the hips down and 38 above. After 45 minutes of glorious tissue cutting--while blocking small dogs from jumping or stealing the tissue, I started marking the seam lines. I did this so that I could give larger seam allowances for adjusting.
|Seams lines marked. I use a thin Sharpie, because they do not|
bleed or rub off after they are dry.
I am using Vogue 8890 View D. The muslin is the short version just to save on muslin. In addition to the the pattern instructions, I am also using Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide for Men's Wear (F.I.T. Collection) and Making Trousers for Men & Women: A Multimedia Sewing Workshop. I have had the first for two and a half years and the second for three years. That is how long it has taken me to get to this. Procrastination? Fear? Intimidation? 21 pieces? I have used the David Coffin a lot for sewing pants for myself and the boys. Just not for Mr. Toad.
|Machine thread traced seam lines. The colors are meaningless|
I use whatever I have that I want to finish.
Once I marked the seam lines, I started laying out on muslin. I decided I am not doing the waistband on the muslin. If I make the back pocket, I will do one. I will do the front pockets because those will effect the fit. I may or may not do the fly.
I thread traced the seam lines and dart lines. Then I played around with the pieces to see where they fit together and how I could add some room to the waist. These are a flat front pant, so eliminating pleats won't work. I finally decided to make one dart between the two original.
|Lining up the pieces to see how it will go together.|
Some of these decisions are based on when I can get Mr. Toad to try the muslin on. Not easy. I think that is the hardest part of fitting others, especially men. I think women like to try things on
After referring to Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide for Men's Wear (F.I.T. Collection), I found that the back seam is where it wants you to add the extra.
|I decided to make one dart instead of two to add two|
inches to the waist. 3 more to go!
it is full of information
on men's tailoring and fitting.
Men's clothes are definitely
built differently than women's,
|I just found out that|
I can get a Kindle version
for $2.99 because I
already have the print version!