|Marfy 1913, with bias neck binding|
I did want to practice some new skills I learned during Leisa's sew-a-long on AChallengingSew.typepad.com. I did a few things differently and have a few ideas in case I want to try this again.
One of my first decisions after completing the muslin was to decide on the fabric. Silk would have been ideal, but I hadn't decided on the fabric for the Marfy skirt and jacket. I wanted to do the sew-a-long while the sew-a-long was being done, so I looked at some fabric while I was picking up some patterns at my local Joann's. I found a couple and surprise, they were on sale for 50 or 60% off. I only needed a yard so I picked a couple that would work with most of what I have. I picke a pink, a white and a flowy sheer pink print. I decided my first attempt would by the pink print. On sale it was $3.50 for the whole thing.
Since I decided to eliminate the colar and go with bias binding, it was quick to cut out. Only two pieces. Leisa suggested using the muslin and creating a paper pattern. If I had been wise and used her advice, much of the rest of this process would have been simpler. However, I thought I knew best.
|Use loose running stitches to outline|
|See how loose these are?|
|I'm always amazed that this works! |
The threads are the seam lines.
|Pull apart the fabric pieces|
and cut the stitches between
Back OpeningThe back opening is sooooo cool. Leisa shows us how to do this. I'll just show the pictures.
|The pins are showing the locations to stitch and where to clip.|
|Snip at the half-way mark between the stitched dart.|
|Cut along the center back through the first section of the dart|
|I hand sewed the opening picking up only a few threads on|
the right side.
|Hand sewing left the opening soft and the stiches are|
almost invisible on the right side.
|I stitched outside the seam line, which is marked with|
the threads. They stay in better than one would expect.
I had decided to use French seams since this was a light and sheer fabric. French seams allow encase the seam allowances, leaving the finished elegantly.
|Trim the seam allowance. It will be encased inside.|
To create a French seam, put the wrong sides together and sew outside the seam allowances. I used the width of my presser foot. Then iron, trim and turn wrong side out.
Because I was finding that my fabric was disintegrating each time I touched it, I left almost a quarter inch when I trimmed the seam allowance. Unfortunately, this left me with a wider encasement than I would have wanted. But my seams were done and no one else would really notice or care.
|This is the inside. I used the thread tracing as my guide|
to stitch. I plucked them out after my seam was finished.
|To make bias strips, but 45 degrees|
from the grain
I first attached the open binding by machine. Then, I sewed almost invisibly by hand.I picked up the fewest threads on the right side as possible. Unfortunately, the threads didn't always like that and would show pulls for inches or simply break.
I also used bias binding on the neckline. Unfortunately, I tortured it more than I should have and have fraying. It isn't visible on the right side, but I know it won't be a blouse I will wear for many years.
What I learned from this project:
I really enjoyed the process of this project. However, I did begin to get burned out when the fabric was fraying. I kind of put me into a simmering panic. I also learned that a little more seam allowance would have been very helpful.
|Marfy 1913 Finished Front|
|Marfy 1913 Finished back|
If I make this again:
- I will give myself larger seam allowances.
- I will possibly use the machine to do more stitching instead of so much hand stitching.
- I will cut larger bias strips.