Monday, January 19, 2015

Jeggings Joy--Ottobre Designs

The pink lines are the lines for my jeggings.
It looks scary at first, but once you start tracing,
it gets  easier to differentiate the colored lines.
I haven't had a lot of time to sew for myself since we started homeschooling. I'm surprised at how good it feels. I guess when I sew more frequently, I forget just how much I really do enjoy the hunt for the perfect pattern and fabric pairing, the prepping of the pattern and the fabric, and the actual cutting, and piecing and perfecting. It is something a sewist can appreciate. The non-sewist just stares at me like I've finally lost it.

For those who have never traced a pattern from a magazine like Burda or Ottobre, the first glimpse of the pattern is daunting. All the overlapping different colored lines is intimidating. The only way to approach it, is to just lay out the pattern you will be tracing and identify which lines you will actually be tracing.

I use the white gift wrapping tissue paper that I buy every year at Costco. It may not be the recommended, but it works for me. I usually have more that I will ever use. I seem to buy it every year, sometimes twice. It lets me make tons of tracing without feeling like it costs anything.

I also just use a pencil. I prefer a mechanical because a wooden one always seems to break or get dull in the middle of tracing. With the mechanical, I can just click for more lead. I usually just steal borrow one from my kids.

Once I figure out which lines I will be tracing I place the tissue paper on top and smooth the two together. Sometimes, I will use painters tape to tape the corners to avoid movement. It isn't always necessary. This time, I was a maverick and just started tracing.

While tracing, I make sure to get the grainline and any other additional markings that will aid in placement. I also put the pattern piece number. I also like to put the size, the Magazine or pattern, and anything else that I might want to refer to now or in the future.

Once everything is traced, the original goes back into the magazine. I really hate it when I look through one of my sewing pattern magazines and the pattern is gone.

Next, I cut the pattern and layout the pattern.

Jeggings are the result when jeans and leggings are mixed together. I was able to find a cotton, lycra knit blend that really looks like denim. In fact, this is has the lighter background thread and the rest are black. The knit weave even looks like the diagonal twill in denim. For the unsuspecting person, it looks like denim.

The real purpose of jeggings is comfort. They are snug and cozy. No waistband--well, it there is an elastic band. There are real back pockets and even a real coin pocket, but the front pockets and fly are just topstiched. This is a great pattern for those afraid of the front pockets and zipper fly.

I used my serger to sew the seams and topstitched each line separately on my regular machine. No coverstitch today.

Once I was finished assembling, I tried on the most awesome jeggings I had ever seen. So comfy, better than a pair of sweats.

Unfortunately, these wonderful form fitting jeggings are just that. Form fitting. Way to form fitting. There is no way at my age as a mom of four could possibly go out in public it one of my favorite makes.

Luckily, I have a 24 year-old daughter who looks great in jeggings. They are even a little more age appropriate.




UPDATE: My daughter has worn and washed these multiple times a week. They have worn very well. Of her three pairs, this is the one worn most and unlike the others, has not worn out. I may need to make her another pair the next size down since she has lost a little weight and I have a bunch more of the denim knit.

Monday, December 29, 2014

This is that awkward post.


You know that awkward communication when you haven't been in touch for a while? You know, the one where you have soooooo much to say, but don't know what to start with or how much to say. Well, this is that post.

It is amazing how quickly the last few months slipped away, but the sewing has been slow. Only a couple garments, some quick little projects for a friend, and a little knitting and crocheting for Christmas gifts.

Remarkably, I have been able to stay on the Ready-to-Wear Fast. I was actually willing to break it at Thanksgiving. I had taken my boys to find something presentable to wear with a houseful of relatives that we just don't see often enough. In fact, I actually looked and looked for something, anything new that I could wear for Thanksgiving. No luck. I couldn't find anything that I thought was worth spending any amount of money on. The boys almost didn't get anything either. This ready-to-wear fast has made me picky about the quality and fit of clothing that I am willing to purchase--for myself and for others.

There are many half-written posts and notes to catch-up on. I have a couple of items from Ottobre Autumn/Winter 2014, a couple pairs of socks that I knit as gifts, a bunch of dish cloths that I knit and crocheted, and of course some hats. I also made some nursing pads for a friend. These are all partially written posts that I am promising to finish and post. Except, I didn't take pictures of the knitting! I may recruit the recipients for some photos.

I have a couple of how-to posts. I managed to mess up the knives on my serger. I think it was time to replace them, but I used it anyway and bent both my upper and lower loopers. I have all of the parts and Mr.Toad has a GoPro camera that I plan to use to record the repair and cleaning. I have a few other video ideas, too.

My plans for the new year are basically to create a better schedule. I miss and need my sewing and blogging time. The transition to homeschooling has been overwhelming. As much as I miss my sewing time, I feel that this is the best thing I have done for our youngest children.

While we were transitioning to homeschooling, our adult daughter moved back home, again. Most of my supplies are packed and being stored in my former sewing room, which is now her room. Getting to my sewing supplies is difficult because I want to respect her privacy as an adult, but then again--I WANT MY STUFF!
2015 sewing


Since every new year requires a few resolutions, I have thought about my last year and what I want the 2014 to look like.

Here are my sewing and blogging resolutions for 2015:

  1. Create a workable schedule that lets me sew and blog regularly. Once a week or more would be ideal.
  2. Catch-up and post my unfinished posts.
  3. Continue my ready-to-wear fast. 
  4. Finish a couple of the projects that are still partially finished.
  5. Most importantly, I will not feel bad if I am unable to meet my other resolutions.
I hope that everyone had a wonderful Christmas and that 2015 is your best so far!

Saturday, August 23, 2014

Women's Ottobre Autumn/Winter 2014

I've gained weight these last few months. This tends to stop my sewing. I have a couple of projects to blog about, but right now I want to look forward.

Since I will be homeschooling this year, I won't need a huge wardrobe. My clothes will need to be more on the comfortable playing around the house, going on outings, going to church and church activities and of course driving the homeschool bus.--I saw the bumper sticker somewhere and loved it. We just don't do bumper stickers.

I'm not sure if the oversize, long shirt is good for my short body, but the jeggings are on my my list
to be made. In fact, I have aleady bought the fabric. The look on the right is also on my list. I have  been
mentally going through my stash for the fabrics. I have the tights, but I will need to use different boots. 

I had been thinking about making a more comfortable knit based wardrobe for fall. Ottobre Design's Womens' issue showed up just as I was wondering what I should do with my wardrobe planning. I am still on my ready-to-wear fast and have not cheated once. I was tempted once but the quality just didn't draw me in enough to actually pick anything up.

These jeans are on my list and I may already have the fabric. The jacket is on my list, but it will
come after some other projects first. I really like the asymmetric zipper.

So, back to the Ottobre Design's. I have always liked fall clothes, but not necessarily the colors. I like the comfortable fit. The leggings or tights with skirts, long or short. I like the sweaters and layering. It helps to hide weight changes, too.

I love the jeggings. I have already ordered some black fabric for them. I will post about the fabric once I have it in my hands. Adult Daughter wants a pair, too. We may work on them together.

I really like this top. It is asymmetric with rushing on the right. I am not sure if my stash has the right fabric.
If I have the fabric, I will make it soon. Otherwise, I will put it on the "sew later" list.
I am not sure about the dress/tunic. I keep wanting it, but then changing my mind. I may have the fabric in my stash.


Here is a better look at the jeggings. I really am excited to get started on these. Why can't stuff be
shipped and delivered on the same day?  I also like this coat. I need a new coat, but I'm not sure this is the right time or year. Again, it is on the list. This poor list is getting long and feeling neglected.

Looking at this layout, it looks like I want to make about half.
Of this issue of Ottobre Design's, I am hoping to make the cami, the asymetric jacket, the asymetric tee, the dress tunic at the top, the jeggings, the leggings, the jeans, the full skirt, the hoody and the coat. I will be satisfied if I sew half of these.

Do you have any favorites from this issue?



Friday, August 22, 2014

Perfect Pattern Parcel #4--All About Boys!!!!

Boys Vest
Who can resist a boy in a vest?
I have started so many blog posts in the last few weeks, but I'm finishing about as many projects as posts. Life has been crazy busy and sometimes just a bit crazy.

Adult Daughter has moved back home after an illness. Unfortunately, when she moved out a few months earlier, we gave Youngest Son back his room. He also had a room makeover. He is still expecting some pillows for his reading corner. The fabric is cut, the stuffing is out, and the machine is still on the shelf. The poor child also requested a new quilt. I reminded him that that can take months or years. He's okay with that.

Cute details on this shirt for the little guy.
I also changed up our family room and connected kitchen. We went from a deep plum Venetian plaster, to a brighter gold. It really lightened up the room and almost matches the living and dining rooms. I also bought the red faux leather couch with chaise and ottoman that I have wanted for years. I did all this while Mr. Toad and the two youngest were camping for five days. They were very shocked at the change. They were surprised that just the paint and new couch could make.

I'm curious about how these will
look on my guys. I know I will need
to grade up for Middle Son.
Another change that occurred while Adult Daughter was away is that we have made the decision to home school, Middle Son and Youngest Son. It has always been in my mind as an alternative since Oldest Son, now 25, started school. I truly do not think that our school systems are designed for most boys. I actually did my master's project on gender differences and learning. It is something that I feel is getting worse. In fact, some believe that males are becoming an under-represented group in college. I am now stepping off of my soap box.

Youngest Son has requested this one.
The makeover and scheduling changes mean that Adult Daughter is sleeping on the couch. The goal was to move her into the sewing/dump room. After doing the painting, I ran out of steam. I still need to sort and move fabric, sewing stuff, treadmill and exercise bike so that we can put the futon in. We're almost there, but school started.

So, back to sewing....

This is Youngest Son's Favorite!
A Knight Hoody!!!
It is available for a $26 or more donation.
I received my women's Ottobre and will go into more detail on that later. While looking for the fabric for my selections for my fall wardrobe, I found the Perfect Pattern Parcel #4! It is for BOYS!!!

Of course, I bought it.

I even have approval, and even requests, from Youngest Son to make most of the patterns. Unfortunately, I may need to grade some of the patterns to fit Middle Son and most if Oldest Son decides he any of these.


If you are not familiar with Perfect Pattern Parcel, it's proceeds go to support both Indie Designers and Schools. So, here is a link. Hopefully, I will get to these before he outgrows all of the patterns!

Friday, August 1, 2014

Pink, White and black quilt
The finished birthday quilt for my daughter.
It is queen size. The bottom of the picture
shows the zebra print backing.
At the top, you can see Ollie.
He "owns" all quilts in the house.
So much has happened since my last post. Today, I will share the birthday quilt I made for my daughter.

I definitely didn't expect to be away from my blog for so long. I have been working on a quilt for my one and only daughter. It was a UFO (UnFinished Object) that haunted me for over two years. I wanted to finish it for her 24th birthday.

I was afraid I put it down and I didn't want to blog about this quilt, so I told myself that I would not blog until I finished. With all of the family drama wearing me down and the hot Sacramento weather (it is currently 108 degrees at 3:55 in the afternoon), it just took forever.

I've had most of the blocks finished and I had the white Kona Cotton. Unfortunately, I had stolen some of the Kona Cotton for other projects and had to buy more. Would you believe that my Joann's only had two yards. I used that up and went back the following week and they were out. So, I went down the street to Hancock Fabrics and bought enough to finish setting the blocks.

Sewing together the 2 1/2" jelly roll strips.
Attaching the white strips to the horizontal and vertical blocks.
The blocks started with a sketch from a quilt I saw years ago. They were made from some jelly rolls--2 1/2 inch strips, supplemented with some fabric from my stash and from Joann's. I made the strips about 8 inches long and attempted random placements.

Random is really difficult for me. I ended up making many extra squares to avoid similar placement.

I made the blocks with four strips each. I had a hard time deciding how large the white strips between the blocks should be. I ended up making a spreadsheet to play with the numbers. I know. I'm a geek. But it really helped me determine how many blocks and the width of the white strips to create a queen size quilt that would also fit onto the Warm and White queen size batting that I bought for this.

Putting the block strips together.
I sent this out on Instagram as my surprise project.
Of course, at that point, I thought it would be done sooner.
I believe that the white strips were cut as 4 inches with 1/4" allowance on each side. The blocks were rotated vertically and horizontally. I sewed 8 inch lengths of white to each block before sewing the block and white combos into strips of eight plus an extra length of white.

Then I sewed the block strips together, being sure that the blocks were still rotated horizontally and vertically. These long strips were really hard on my hands and wrists. It is also amazing how hot it can get while sitting at a sewing machine. Using the iron to press each seam is also a bit warm.

One reason I make sure to make a quilt each year is that it makes me move the furniture and do a good floor cleaning in the family room. After a good sweeping, I follow with a really good floor scrubbing so that I can make my quilt sandwich.

The quilt backing taped face down on the very clean floor.

The batting placed on the backing.
Bugg is inspecting the batting.

The quilt top placed right side up on the quilt sandwich.
The next step will be to safety pin in the center of
each block and each white "intersection," making sure
to secure all three layers.
Bugg and Ollie are making final inspections.

The backing for this was a black and white zebra print. I had to add a strip of additional fabric because the two widths were not wide enough. I also used the same black and white zebra stripe for the binding.

To make the quilt sandwich, I put the backing (zebra fabric) face down. I used painter's tape to hold it down after getting it wrinkle free. Then, the batting, followed by the pieced quilt top. I then spent about 45 minutes getting everything smooth and wrinkle free while using safety pins to hold the layers together.

Quilting a queen size quilt on the dining table.
My original plan was to quilt using a puzzle piece design. However, as time kept whirling by, I realized I should just stitch in the ditch. Or, as I do much better, near the ditch. One of the best part of sewing for non-sewists is that they don't notice the crazy, swerving, uneven stitches--at least until they read this.

Well, after everything was quilted together, I started designing a quilt label. The first few were too big. I'm having a software issue that thinks I'm using a crazy small screen so I cannot tell how big until I print out the design.

I finally had a perfect design and it stitched out beautifully. I started trimming it so that I could put it on before attaching the binding. I ended up cutting through it, making it unusable.



I attempted to stitch it out three more times. It kept having a problem on the same part of the quote that encircled around the main information. I finally, decided to ditch the quote and just do the main information.

Once the label was hand stitched in place, I stitched the border and immediately put it into the washer on hot to shrink it up. I fell asleep before putting it into the dryer and had to re-rinse before putting it in the dryer on hot.

Sarah finally got her birthday quilt. I'm now hoping she will retire her 19 year old Pocahontas comforter that she still uses.

Friday, June 27, 2014

Repairing Shoes at Home

My favorite sandals before repairing.
Its a nice summer afternoon and you pull out you favorite sandals. You notice that they just don't feel quite right. You take them off and realize that the sole has decided to separate.

Now I know many people who would toss the offending shoe. I, however, am not made of money. I would also like to dispel the myth that our children have created about the money tree. It doesn't exist.

Now the trick I am about to show you can also be used on other shoes. In fact, I frequently use it on my sons' shoes. You know how the shoe is less than a month old and the sole is no longer attached and the kid insists that be needs new shoes? Yeah, I just fix them. I make my kids out grow their shoes.

I know. I'm a mean mom. Guess what. M.O.M. is Mean Old Mom.

Applying the gooey contact cement to between the
surfaces using a popsicle stick.

Anyway. Here is the magic trick for fixing shoes. Contact cement. Don't get it confused with rubber cement. Contact cement dries flexible, but permanent. Rubber cement does not. In fact, while it is flexible, it allows the two surfaces to be repositioned. Not a good idea when you want your shoes to stay fixed.

I start by brushing off anything loose, like dirt. I will also use an alcohol prep pad to clean the surfaces.



Using binder clips to hold the two surfaces together
while the contact cement dries.

Then, I apply the gooey mess to both surfaces. It can be messy so make sure to put on the work surface.

After waiting a few minutes, squish the two sides together. Once the sides are together find a way to hold them together. As you can see, I used some binder clips, a hair clip and even the clip for a dog leash.

Mr. Toad would use a proper  clamp. But then, he uses screw drivers when a butter knife would do just as well.  I have also used the foot of the couch to hold everything together. For the boy's shoes I've even used masking or painters tape. No duct tape. It leaves a sticky residue.

I used just about anything I could find to hold these together.
Binder clips, hair clips, alligator clip from some electronic
gadget, and even the clop from a dog leash


I usually leave the sides clamped (or taped or under the  or under the couch) over night.

I have had very good luck with this. It is water proof and flexible. I have never had to redo anything that I have fixed this way.

I know there are other uses for contact cement, but the only other thing that I have used it for was to reattach the laminate on our cabinets. Don't ask. We have four kids.

Thursday, June 26, 2014

Two Pairs of Jalie 2107 Cargo Shorts

Cargo Shorts
Four shorts I made for youngest son using Jalie 2107.
I've been gone for a while, but I am back. The family drama is now a little less dramatic and taking up less of my energy and time. I'm also feeling better.

I am also working on a secret project that will be unveiled within the next month or so. It has taken up a lot of time, but oh so worth it.

I have quite a few projects to blog about, but will try to do one at a time.

Making a slant pocket
Changing the curved pocket to a slant pocket.
I ended up using the longer pencil marking
at the top and the same marking on the side
as my cut line.



I finished these two awesome pairs of Jalie 2107 Cargo shorts for my two youngest boys a few weeks ago. This is my favorite shorts and pants pattern for my boys. I think it is my favorite because they ask me to make them. Then, they wear them almost everyday.

I made my first pair of these as pants for youngest son when he he was in kindergarten. I made him four pairs for school the next August. After that, I just kept making them. 

I have made these with and without the cargo pocket, with elastic, with buttonhole elastic, as shorts and as long pants. I have also modified the front pocket. The original pocket is a curved jean pocket. Middle Son prefers a slant pocket.

New pattern markings for slant pocket
The new cut line for the slant pocket.




Since this is a Jalie pattern it has 22 sizes included--size toddler 2 through men's 50. This is definitely a pattern to trace! I have traced mine so much that it is beginning to show signs of wear. When I found out that Jalie was discontinuing the pattern a few years ago, I was more than a little upset. I even emailed them.

Jalie now has this and a few of their other discontinued patterns as downloads now! Jalie 2107 is one of these downloadable patterns. They have also now included the pattern instructions separately. They are also on the pattern, but it is a pain to have to open the huge pattern to read the directions.

The new markings for slant pocket.
I didn't cut the actual pattern pieces.
Instead, I folded the pieces.


I made some modification on Middle Son's pockets. He prefers a slant pocket to the curved pocket. To make this adjustment, I compared his favorite pants and shorts. I attempted to have him try them all on and have him tell me what he liked and disliked about each. Yeah, that didn't go well. Males do not like to try on clothes--and this one also despises discussing the details. Who would have thought??????


So, to make this modification, you will need to find all the pieces that make up the pocket and front. In this case, there is the front, the pocket facing, and the yoke. On the picture above, it shows a slashed line that I originally thought would be the cut line, but I managed to sneak in a question about the pants with that slant and he accidentally told me that he preferred a more vertical, slant. Because of this information, I used the longer penciled line along the waist and used the same line on the side.
slanted pocket
The finished slanted pocket.

After marking the front, I marked the facing. The facing is from the lining in these pants and is part of the pocket. I lined up the marks from the pattern on the front and traced the same new cut line along the pocket edge.

Youngest Son like the patterned pockets.
It also helps with identifying who's black shorts are
whose when doing laundry.

















On the front yoke, which is from the fashion fabric, I used the original pattern piece and then lined it up with the new front using the pattern markings. I made sure that the new yoke extended past the new pocket edge enough to extend past the edge once sewn and another inch or so.

Belt loops made using the Cover Stich Machine & attachment

Side of Jalie 2107
Back of Jalie 2107



















I was now able to continue the assembly by following the directions. Yes. I follow the directions on these pants. These are GREAT instructions. The only modifications I make are that I serge the seams, then top stitch. I also use top stitching thread in the middle and regular, all purpose thread in the bottom.


Jalie 2107-Favorite Cargo Shorts
When I use top stitching thread, I only use it in the top needle and only when top stitching. I also use a #18 Jeans needle. This keeps the tension right on my machine. If you have a needle threader on your machine, don't use it with the top stitching thread. It has bent my threader in the past. To fix the threader is a service trip. Also, it has jammed my auto cutter, but that is an easier fix.

I don't have too many pictures of these on the boys. Middle Son decided he wasn't going to stick around for photos. Youngest son immediately found dirt and got comfortable.

I can tell you that in the month since these were completed, they have been worn almost every day. They have become their favorite shorts and there is a request for more.



Jalie 2107-Cargo Shorts
Adaptations I am considering are:

  • Leaving side pocket off
  • Buttonhole elastic in the waist
  • Elastic in the waist
  • Welt pockets in the back
  • Button fly
I have also been considering doing a sew along for these pants/shorts. If I were to do a sew along, I would cover many details and variations.

Since this is a pattern for men and for boys, this may be your chance to sew for guy with some guidance.

Would you be interested in participating in a sew along for Jalie 2107?
  
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